Layered laser-cut fabrics are the highlight of Lilly Heine‘s autumn/winter graduate collection for Central Saint Martin’s. The one-half Harrods award winner was inspired by the artworks of Brancusi and Picasso to produce a meticulous range of futurist garments that are dynamic and sculptural.
Read the rest of the entry for insights into Lilly’s design and inspirations in her own words:
Concept behind the recent collection:
For Autumn Winter ’10 I was looking at Picasso’s studies of curvaceous women and his sculptures and at the same time started using fabric to create volume. Once I put these shapes onto the body, it was like sculpting on a person. When the models walked around in the garments, the different layers started to move and looked like sculptures in motion.
Materials and main techniques used for the collection:
Every shape is lasercut and then every layer is pieced together by hand-stitching. It is a very labour intensive collection. Sometimes there were quite a few of us standing around a garment on a mannequin, sewing in different places. Essentially, it is in part a couture collection, disguised by the fact that it looks modern.
What are the most important things you have learned from your teachers and mentors?
To begin with, it is important to have a mentor who you respect and look up to, someone who understands your work and your aims, whichever direction you are taking. That is what I found on the MA at St. Martins.
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detail of the layered garments
Thanks to Lilly for providing the images!
Backstage Photography: Alex Sainsbury
