It was millenniums ago as a design student that I was in awe of French chronophotographer Etienne-Jules Marey, known for his graphic studies of humans, animals and objects in motion. I’m glad to have come across the works of Dutch designer Kirsten Enkelmann who was inspired by Etienne and recalled my interest with motion and its influence on design (read Wear Out).

Folded Fiction is a sports-inspired collection showcasing a dazzling feat of pleats. Working on a mix of low-tech and high-tech constructions, Kirsten utilized the traditional knife pleat on a variety of fabrics from cotton to pigskin, and lasercuts on neoprene to produce stretch pleats. Take a peek!

Check out this new collection by Neo Dia

Iris van Herpen showcased her five new architectural looks alongside her previous pieces for the Haute Couture collection, combining 3D printing with hand-made processes. The result is a remarkable overview of Iris’s works that featured her profound craftsmanship and her skillful grasp of the materials in relation to the body. I look forward to more!

Photos courtesy of Iris van Herpen

Based on the fictitious inhabitants of Ethiopia in year 2012, fashion designer Karin Wuthrich merged Inuit tribal clothing, African body art and European patterns to produce a monochromatic collection filled structurally (pleated) lapels.

Designer’s statement:
If one were to ask the philosopher Wittgenstein what is actually possible in history, he would answer: ‘What is thinkable is also possible.’ What if the course of history could be changed in order to allow something new to develop? In my fiction I joined Inuit with European and African tribes together in the Ethiopian capitol of Addis Abeba in the 17th century to create a new culture. I then tried to imagine what this Addis Abeba would have become if the city had developed into a modern metropolis. My women’s collection shows the clothing of the fictitious inhabitants in the year 2012. Angular forms and padding recall Inuit clothing. African body art determined new silhouettes; richly embroidered European clothing inspired my prints. Materials like flowing silk, technical fabrics, leather and wool support the differentiated effect. Each article of clothing has its own history of development and is part of the traditions of my fictitious world.

Sarah Mok is a fourth-year fashion design graduate at the University of Technology in Sydney, Australia, and her collection, which placed her third at the iD International Emerging Designer Awards, is simply a feast for the eyes. Ephemeral Reverie is an illusory exploration in the fleeting quality of the garment through its form, color and movement. This is achieved through intricate biomorphic sculptural pieces that encompass the body, creating a powerful volumetric form along with a rich gradation of shades, tones and textures.

Thanks to Sarah for giving us peek at your works!

Designer’s statement:
My collection explores the sculptural and artistic approach to fashion.

The central focus is to create a sense of illusion through the form, colour and its movement to evoke an ephemeral quality to the garment, as if possessing its own life.

This is achieved through intricate organza pieces that encompass the body creating a powerful three-dimensional form. Moreover the subdued colours and tones created by hand dip-dying play an integral role in enlivening the garment and setting the mood to the collection.

These sculptural pieces are made from hundreds of organza square pieces and strips that are individually joined by transparent nylon thread and then draped on a simple organza base garment.

My passion for sculptural garments came from designers like Iris van Herpen, Sandra Backlund and Mary Katrantzou for her vibrant colours and unique textile prints that evoke a sense of illusion and dimension by creating a relationship between the interior inspired prints and the silhouette of the garment.

Five Hungarian design students from the Moholy-Nagy University of Art and Design collaborated on a collection made by re-using leather belts and shoes Alluding to creatures of ancient Greek mythology and science fiction themes, the recycled leather was given new life by the white paint yet still retains the quality of the worn leather beneath.

Thanks to Iidiko for the images.

Design team: Kata Horvath, Piroska Gyetvai, Monika Metal, Ildiko Mikula and Edit Urban.

Photos were made by Zsofia Levai
make-up by Anna Rozsnyay
models Reka Petho, Viktoria Bate, and Lilla Rozsahegyi.

Check out the Tron-inspired, polygonal textured new work from fashion designer, Alba Prat, whose last collection was featured here.

Digitalized

Tron, a cult film from 1982, takes place in two parallel universes: the real and the virtual. Through a laser that converts real people into pixels, the world of Tron appears like a strange foreign world without sun, where androids live surrounded by 3D landscapes.

The film has a strong retro character given by the era of production, which coexists with  a high-tech nature. Both aspects are the basis of my collection. It consists in androgyn, straight silhouettes out of wool, leather, cotton and lack. Through different techniques I have created cube patterns on the surface of some of the materials. Giving the designs a technical yet minimalist character.

Photography: Jonas Lindstroem
Model: Aleks (Izaio)
Hair & Makeup: Tatjana Kühr

Check out these origami-inspired carrying cases designed by UK-based Naoki Kawamoto who conceived of a folding system that combines the Japanese art of origami and traditional wrapping technique of ‘furoshiki’. The geometric shape of each case is derived from a two-dimensional structure with segmented triangulations that are then folded into a volume. Watch the videos of the folding progression.

- the suitcase -

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- the clutch bag -

the bag’s skeletal system

Click here to view the embedded video.

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- the spectacle case -

Click here to view the embedded video.

Images courtesy of Naoki Kawamoto

Inspired by the architectural shapes of bus stations at her hometown of Londrina, Brazilian fashion student Danielly Narimato created an award-winning pair of outfits. Her signature undulated ‘florets’ are made by folding and curving rubberized material, and their shapes recall the Spage-Age-y curvaceous geometric elements prevalent in Googie Architecture of the 50s and 60s.

Designer’s statement: I’m Danielly Narimato, Brazilian fashion student at Universidade Estadual de Londrina (senior year). With this clothes I won 2nd Place Award in the Fashion Contest “VIII Prêmio João Turin”. (it means: VIII João Turin Award) The work was inspired on the historical importance and the modernist aesthetic in architecture of the bus stations of the city I live, Londrina. The contrast between the departures and arrivals, welcoming hugs and sad goodbyes, past and present, each line and each curve of the bus stations’ structures served as inspiration to compose, in a modernist language, volumes, cuts and shapes of the clothes.

Images courtesy of Danielly Narimato

Photography: Marcelo Macedo

Ever had those moments of finding yourself pulling your shirt fabric when it sticks to your skin? Static cling isn’t fun, but a subject fascinating enough to inspire fashion designer Lena Glendor to take elements of electromagnetism into her graduate collection at Sweden’s Beckmans. Her playful take on static cling is featured as forced ruching on her otherwise minimal tailoring of wool, silk and suede garments. Thanks Lena for the images.

Designer’s statement:
In true minimalistic spirit, my collection focuses on pure shapes and exclusive materials. In contrast, technological elements like gravitation, static electricity and magnetism have inspired me to work with forced drapings and metal surfaces.

Images courtesy of Lena Glendor & Beckmans

For you future brides and pleat fans: this dashing wedding dress with countless bias-cut pleats could be the one!

This gown could be had at BHLDN, an awesome online (artisanal) bridal store and the brainchild of Anthropologie.

Phew, I realize it’s been a while since I last wrote. My days and nights have been the most intense ever since I started my nine-to-five two weeks ago, but there’s no stopping me on seeking new finds!

Recently I caught hold of up-and-coming UK-based fashion designer Georgia Hardinge who agreed to share her awesome Fall 2011 collection in which the designer explored the sculptural and two-dimensionality of skeletons. Inspired by the morbid imageries taken by Joel Peter Witkin, the runway set featured tops, dresses and leggings with abstract monochromatic skeletal prints, and later followed by an off-white ensemble of textural leather garments with layered pleats and fold details. View the images right after the break.

Photography: Christopher Dadey

Named in the ‘Ones To Watch’ by Vauxhall Fashion Scout, fashion designer Anja Mlakar conceived her latest Fall 2011-12 collection with clean, sculptural silhouettes in mind while dabbling with weaves, laser-cut garments and foam-filled jerseys in a restrained color palette. The prominent feature of her garments is the rounded, floating skirts which were inspired from a deconstructed tutu that Mlakar designed for a ballerina.

Check out Anja’s website for more info on her past collections.

Design statement:
Anja Mlakar’s Fall 2011-12 collection, her first for Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones To Watch, shows off her signature aesthetic: clean laser-cut lines and geometric weaves, crisp blocks of washed-out colour and sculptural silhouettes. She re-imagines classic shapes through technical innovation, constructing three-dimensional layers, and square windows within fabrics, and mini-farthingales supporting floating skirts. Cashmeres, jerseys and wools appear in a restrained colour palette – muted blue-greys and nude-pinks, brighter rays of sunshine yellows and sunset reds, and twilight shadows of black – soundtracked by the hypnopompic monotone of “The Pink Room” from Twin Peaks. Minimalism is mixed with future-baroque flourishes, with modern arrangements of circles and squares. Perforated pixel-like grids; rounded cuffs with plastic supports; tubular belts of foam-filled jersey. Taking inspiration from a deconstructed Marie-Antoinette-esque tutu that Mlakar designed for ballerina Maria Kochetkova’s dance in “One Overture” – sheer body-con fabrics stretched over flattened, high-waisted crinoline under-structures. It’s a look of lightness, and of a new elegance for the future.

Photography: Christopher Dadey

The recent Fall collection by London-based fashion designer Eudon Choi caught my eye. Eudon designed dresses, coats and skirts replete with equestrian elements – hard and soft materials such as horsehair, leather saddle pockets and buckles are combined with surprising hints of twisted ruched chiffon details. Simply ♥-ly!

Photography: Christopher Dadey

Although S/S 2011 has passed and the F/W 2011-12 fever is on, it’s still worth mentioning this spring collection by Alice Palmer. Fossil Warriors comprises of neatly-sculpted, body-hugging dresses with pleated textures reminiscent of prehistoric anthropod shells – all stunningly executed by this up-and-coming UK fashion designer!

Photography: Chris Moore

Hailing from Australia is Neo Dia, a young fashion label helmed by the creative Becky Chua and Gavin Lowes who have drawn Frank Gehry and Bauhaus as their source of inspiration. Sharp, geometric garments with pleated details define their recent collection, and the use of translucent fabric create a layered depth reminiscent of Lyonel Feininger‘s paintings.

Neo Dia‘s other half, Becky Chua, graciously offered to answer a few questions for Pleat Farm on the beginnings of the label, their design interests, inspirations and aspirations. Have a read below:

Could you tell us about your background, and how Neo Dia got its start?

We both studied fashion in RMIT Australia and throughout the course we always worked very closely together. Our aesthetics and ideas became so intertwined, that after we graduated, the idea of starting a label together was simply impossible to resist!

Neo Dia comes from the words “Neo” meaning “new” and “Dia” coming from the word “Diametric” refering to lines and shapes. Our labels core vision and aesthetic is “New Line and Shapes”. However, many have interpreted Neo Dia to mean a “New Day” for fashion and this description empowers us to continue to push and stretch the boundaries of our label.

What are your key sources of inspiration for the label?

Most of our key sources from inspiration comes from art, architecture and academics; such as maths and science. However, for our second collection we were also inspired by structures created in music! For example, Our collection Rhythmic Algorithm is based the theory of rhythm, which is “the pattern of recurrent strong and weak accents” and the structure and mathematical beauty of graphs.

Any interesting materials/techniques/narratives that you are currently interested in?

We use a lot of cotton organdy and silk organza in our collections. This is because we love the stiffness and malleability these fabrics give to our garments and it allows us to explore geometric shapes, folding and origami.
We spend alot of time searching for unique and quality fabrics. Recently we have been sourcing and experimenting with silk velvet, sheer wools and leather. Using high quality and natural fabrics is very important to us.

Where are you looking to take the label in the future?

We will definitely continuing to collaborate with more artists, jewelery designers, photographers and videographers. We love working with other creative and inspiring people and collaborating on new pieces in video, photography and art. Also, following our invitation to show our collection in Amsterdam, want to expand further into Europe and hopefully participate in other events around the world.

Huge thanks to Neo Dia for the Q&A session and the gorgeous images! I’m totally looking forward to their future collections.

Photography: Philip Papadis + Daniel Archer
Stylist: Jam Baylon

London’s Barbican Art Gallery is currently showing Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion – a survey of avant-garde Japanese garments. Drawing from the 1980s to the present (featuring names such as Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto), the exhibition explores the unique sensibilities and notions of beauty embedded in Japanese design – with heavy inspirations from origami.

Thanks to my snap-happy, London-dwelling sister, you’ll get a peek at the exhibition through her viewfinder.

pleated skirt by tao kurihara

Click here to view the embedded video.

Photography: Shr S.

Matt Booth and Peter Crawley created Hypo: hypotrochoid designs generated by adobe flash and stitched on paper.

Matt built a small Flash tool which controls the radius and rotation speeds of the circles, with a code to specify colors and line thicknesses. Working like a digital spinograph, the tool performs an animation, and the designs were saved as a PDF to be printed at a large scale. Peter then worked on the animation results by stitching on paper.

More prints shown here.

via Creative Applications

Dutch fashion designer, Iris van Herpen made her debut at the Paris Haute Couture Week, and once again WOW-ed us with her futuristic collection inspired by the sculptures of American artist, Kris Kuksi. Just like her previous spring/summer collection, Iris employed 3D printing technique on her garments with the help of architect Daniel Widrig. Unconventional materials such as metal and silk blend, burned woven metal and shiny hair threads were used in this collection.

Iris van Herpen

Images via Peter Stigter & Blow Presents & Dazed Digital