PLEAT FARM » Jewelry

Re:cycle by Emma Ware

pleatfarmer — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 08:08:15 +0000

Re:cycle is a range of gorgeous jewellery made by UK-based artist/photographer/designer, Emma Ware. The result is certainly far from its humble material which is recycled rubber that Emma fashioned into a series of sculptural neckpieces, earrings and wristbands. Huge thanks to Emma for the wonderful pics!

Recently, Emma took time to answer a few questions on her background and shared some thoughts on what inspired her to create Re:cycle.

You have such a varied background from broadcasting to painting. What inspired you dabble in jewellery?

Jewellery for me is as much about shape, form and colour as is painting or film making, just applied differently. It’s sculpture you can wear which kind of makes it more accessible and everyday than fine art can be.

My mum gave me a starter jewellery making kit when I was little and I’ve always come back to it at random times in my life. This time I really enjoyed the sitting and creating beautiful things in contrast to running around for hours with a camera. I decided to see if I could make a living from it and I’m quite overwhelmed by the response!

Could you tell me more about Re:cycle? How did you to come up with the designs, and what types of process are involved in the making of it?

My friend had a puncture one day, seeing potential in the rubber ring I had a go at chopping it up and immediately felt I was onto something. I slice them up, stitch them together and/or thread them onto chain. Often I try to reproduce a design and end up getting side tracked finding a beautiful form I just can’t lose and end up with a new design. I have a lot of random ‘shapes’ hanging around that are waiting for their moment! It’s very much about following a process, I tend not to come up with a design then make it. I go with the shapes the tubes want to make and work out how to make it complement the human form.

I originally started making jewellery from old broken jewellery, toys, feathers, bottle tops. It was always about using materials that already existed, it doesn’t make much sense to me economically or ecologically to manufacture new materials when so much is out there already. It also changes the design process being restricted by a material. I’m constantly on the lookout for new ‘waste’ materials to use.

I know that your jewellery is currently in stock in the UK, do you plan to sell in the US or whether you have stockists here?

I’d love to branch out to the US but don’t have any stockists there yet. It’s a case of finding the right places which is a bit tricky from a distance. (if any spring to mind I’d love to hear about them!)

I sell internationally from my website, I’m about to launch my e-commerce site which will make it more straight forward to buy directly from me. The pieces are soft and tactile which is hard to properly appreciate from photos.

More of Emma Ware

Photography by Vanya Sacha?

Shadowplay’s knitted jewelry

pleatfarmer — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 08:30:48 +0000

Designer Heather Goldberg founded Shadowplay: a hand-knit jewelry line taking cues from “oceanic aragonite structures, planetary space, crystal formations, spiderwebs, and the concept of making the abstractly invisible visible”. Being mindful of her material sources, Heather uniquely hand-crafted her knits using organic, naturally dyed yarns, and Certified Fair Trade black silver closures, with Swarovski crystals dotting the amorphous, kelp-like neckpieces.

Read how Heather Goldberg started Shadowplay here.

Images courtesy of Shadowplay

Party Supplies Challenge on Project Runway

pleatfarmer — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:28:35 +0000

(This is a spoiler alert!)

Last night’s Project Runway episode was one of my many “unconventional challenge” favorites regardless of the rampant drama in the show! Contestants were prompted to design a garment out of supplies from a party store. Paper bags, foils, napkins, garlands, plastic plates and ribbons were just a few of the choice materials the designers used to whip up their incredible designs in a short period of time.

So here are a few of my favorite garments:

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Andy South’s outfit was painstakingly made by folding and braiding ribbons.

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Valerie’s napkin dress

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April’s crystal-like dress created from (sparkly?) paper bags

Mondo’s design consists of a bodice constructed from strips of plastic plates and a skirt from twirled garlands

Mondo’s plastic strips on the foreground ready to be formed

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Ivy Higa’s design

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Michael Costello’s dress

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Michael Drummond’s ‘balloon’ skirt

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Gretchen’s fringe skirt and paper jacket

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Christopher Collin’s napkin dress

Images taken via Lifetime.com – Project Runway’s video (may not be available for view outside of USA) and photo album

Rope by Eleanor Bolton

pleatfarmer — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 17:27:35 +0000

The Rope collection is the brainchild of British jewellery designer and recent graduate of London’s Royal College of Art, Eleanor Bolton. Check out the gorgeous neck pieces crafted by coiling and stitching cotton rope.

In Eleanor’s words: “I have developed my own craft technique coiling and stitching cotton rope, which I write patterns for as you would for knitting or crochet. Forms develop out of a combination of intuitive material experimentation and the shared visual language of eclectic sources. The movement, knotting and twisting of the coils reveals the striking stitching in contrasting colours, while their form as large-scale jewellery pieces, celebrates the softness and tactility of the material and creates a sense of presence.”

Collaboration with Sam McCoach

Origamic textiles by Elena Salmistraro

pleatfarmer — Mon, 26 Apr 2010 02:49:09 +0000

The art of origami is taken up a notch in the form of textural textiles by Milan-based designer, Elena Salmistraro. Elena produced these series of lovely accessories using paper, Tyvek and a sustainable fabric called Jacroki.

- Prickly Bloom Series -

While teaming up with deepdesign‘s Raffaella Mangiarotti and Matthew Bazzicalupo, Elena created textural and prickly textiles for series of headwear and a neckpiece. Each accessory was produced by repeated elementary folds using both paper and Tyvek – a paper-like water-resistant fabric.

Together with deepdesign, Elena utilized Tyvek to create this ornamental headwear functions as a hat, necklace and earrings.

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- Jacroki Bodice -

Elena pursued her foldings further in the form of a bodice made of Jacroki: a type of sustainable fabric made from natural fibers and recycled paper fibers manufactured by Okinawa and designed by Michael Ruffin.

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- Origami Vase Cover in Jacroki-

Prickly Bloom photos by Park Mino, Francesco and Marco Roveta Pelà
Jacroki Bodice and Origami vase cover photos by Elena Salmistraro

Paper Jewellery by Saloukee

pleatfarmer — Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:50:29 +0000

I simply love these sculptural paper wearables by jewellery designer Sarah Louise Kelly of Saloukee designs. Much of Saloukee’s pieces adopt unconventional processes of jewellery making, and wherever possible, incorporate ecologically friendly technologies and materials. The result is a collection of innovative and unique jewellery made from laser-cut, embossed papers.

Sarah is currently looking for contributors for her latest book commission on paper jewellery, and would welcome any interested parties to contact her for more details.

revolution blue neckace

You may wonder about the longevity of paper jewellery. However in the case of Sarah’s paper pieces, the softening of the material over time actually works better for the wearer as it sits closer to the body. When it’s appropriate for the individual, Sarah also offers paper replacement services to alleviate any problems, thus continuing the life (and love!) of the pieces.

revolution grey necklace

Designer statement: My collection is directly influenced by a study in to the Victorian corset. Taking the concept of restriction, the pieces exploit interaction with the wearer by using a snakelike motion, only conceivable through touch. The design enables the pieces to expand & contract so that its movement is synchronized with that of the wearer, offering a beautifully bespoke collectors item, made to treasure.

solitary cream bracelet

large solitary blue bracelet

disperse pink earrings

obverse collar, black

obverse collar, cream

obverse bracelet, grey

Sarah’s works are currently on display in these fold-some exhibitions:

Paperficial – craft2eu, Hamburg, Germany …is like paper, either of delicate transparency or of flexible stability, it can be cut like paper, or folded, scrunched up or pressed together, it wants to be painted and printed like paper.
From 10. March to 08. May 2010
Mon to Fr 12am-7pm, Sat 11am-4pm
http://www.craft2eu.net/index.php?id=425&L=1

Pleats and Folds – Galerie Handwerk, Munich, Germany. An exhibition dedicated to the phenomenon of folding & pleating including international artists working in the fields of textile, paper, metal, jewellery, wood, and ceramics.
April, 23rd until June 5th 2010
www.hwk-muenchen.de/galerie

From Pulp – Craft in the Bay, Cardiff, Wales, An insight into the innovative applications of paper into contemporary applied art in the UK.
15.05.2010 – 04.07.2010
http://www.makersguildinwales.org.uk/component/eventlist/details/9-from-pulp-

Paper Art – Rye Art Gallery, East Sussex, England – with paper artists, Oona Patterson, Sher Christopher, Richard Sweeney, Lorna Crabbe, Eleanor Cardwell and Serena Partridge
22nd May to the 4th July 2010
http://www.ryeartgallery.co.uk/

Photo credits: Saloukee, Jennifer Peel & Lucas Brodowicz
Follow Saloukee on Twitter

Folds by Tine De Ruysser

pleatfarmer — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 15:15:52 +0000

Dabbling with folding techniques on textiles, Belgian artist/ designer, Tine De Ruysser, has amassed an impressive pleat-goodness of wearable accessories, including her latest batch of vessels. Here are a few selections from her portfolio:

Metalized Folding Textiles

Mirror Bowl. Materials: mirror polyester foil and Tyvek

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Using a range of folding patterns onto textile composites, Tine created various multi-faceted and flexible containers that often change in shapes and sizes. The bowls are currently on display at the ‘Still Life from Flanders’ exhibition at Gallery Flow in London.

Anemone I & II. Materials: plywood and polyester fabric

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close-up of Anemone I

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Wave I Copper. Material: copper and polyester fabric

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Wave I Plywood. Material: plywood and polyester fabric

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Wearable Metal Origami: Tine’s PhD collection at the Royal College of Art

Shoulder Cape. Material: copper and polyester fabric

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folding detail of the shoulder cape

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Three bracelets. Materials: copper and polyester, gold plate silver and polyester, silver and polyester

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Bracelet turning into bag. Material: copper and polyester

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Skirt that changes in length. Material: copper and polyester

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Banknote Jewelry

Linked bracelet made from US dollar bills, turned inside-out.

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Tine created the ‘banknote’ collection made by folding paper money as wearable accessories. They can be used as valid currencies by dismantling the jewelry as component banknotes.

6 necklaces from 6 continents.(from inside-out: China, USA, Australia, Europe, South Africa, Argentina,)

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Check out Tine’s website for more information.

t 4 3 Jewellery

pleatfarmer — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 08:40:45 +0000

t 4 3 (Tea For Three) is a jewelry label dedicated to friendship and a favorite pastime of tea-drinking. Spearheaded by Singapore-based jewelry designer, Serene Wong, The label features tea-inspired, hand-crafted jewelry collections by a trio of designers and former classmates from Central St Martins. Below is a showcase of a few selected works by Serene Wong and Szufen Huang:

Scent by Serene Wong

Inspired by the scent of various teas and its often calming and relaxing effects on one’s mood, part of the series combines aromatherapy and jewelry to stimulate the senses and evoke nostalgia. The collection consists of several vessel-like pieces that contain assorted contents ranging from colorful floral tea leaves to aromatic oils. This enables the wearer to change its contents or dispose of the tea leaves accordingly. They can also be personalized by varying the scents according to the wearer’s preference. These jewelry pieces are hand fabricated using acrylic and sterling silver.

*Available for order in a variety of colors (subject to availability).

Price available upon request.

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Jurassic by Serene Wong

Designed for Hansel’s Fantastic Jurassic Collection, these jewelry were fabricated in acrylic and inspired by 3D dinosaur puzzles. Each one is handmade and can be re-engineered to size to fit the wearer. Jurassic first debuted on the runway at Audi Fashion Festival 2009 in Singapore.

*Available for order in a variety of colors (subject to availability).

Price available upon request.

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Art by Szufen Huang

“花開富貴” (hua kai fu gui) – meaning “Fortune Blossoms” – is the auspicious name of a Chinese tea which blooms from a ball into a beautiful flower when immersed in water. These Chinese characters have been branded onto the delicate fabric to bring fortune to the wearer and add texture to the designs. Carefully hand-pleated in silk organza, the collection is also inspired by floral forms and skeletal structure of tea leaves. These qualities are expressed through the use of translucent and lightweight fabrics and lively details such as intricately hand-painted motifs.

*No longer available for order.

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About the designers: t 4 3 (Tea For Three) is a jewelry label that is dedicated to Friendship and a favorite pastime. The three designers love the way that Tea brings people together and hope that their jewelry can do the same by serving as conversation starters. Hailing from Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, London (2002), the former classmates Nana Akashi (Japan), Szufen Huang (Taiwan) and Serene Wong (Singapore) are currently based in three Asian countries. They constantly look to challenge themselves as designers and welcome opportunities for collaboration.

The Housemates by TT:NT

pleatfarmer — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 08:07:02 +0000

The Housemates is a brooch collection base on the common insects that live in the home of designers Tithi Kutchamuch and Nutre Arayavanish of TT:NT. Inspired by rare insects sold at auction, Tithi and Nutre elevated the creepy crawlies to a ‘rare’ status – the caterpillar, ant, spider, fly, fruit fly, and cockroach shaped by folded metal sheet and plated with 14ct pale gold.

See Tithi’s Folding Birthday Rings

Gather by Naoko Ogawa

pleatfarmer — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 23:04:19 +0000

Thanks to designer Naoko Ogawa who provided the images of her Gather collection: a fun and versatile set of accessories that emphasizes on how we interact with our clothes.

Comprising of patterned aluminum plates in squares and circles, ‘Gather’ allows the user to create folds on a garment, even hold two or more garments together by pinching the plates on any parts of the shirt, dress or scarf, and all done to the user’s whims and fancies.

Designer’s note:

The plate transforms the style of your clothes in many different ways, depending on not only your everyday emotions, but also the pattern or design of the plate, including new patterns of the plate drawn by crush as well as metal fatigue itself. You can enjoy an unlimited amount of designs on the silver plate and clothes since they never change in the same way.

It is my intention to make this jewelry enjoyably sensual, to let your hand touch and feel your body line (or silhouette of your clothes) with this plate and then to redefine it through crushing. By doing so, you find the idea of your everyday clothes destroyed and / or turned into something new with the beautiful gathers which you could not imagine or predict. The gathers made by the redefinition of the crush creates a new body line (or silhouette of your clothes) and wraps you up for the day.

Gather is available for purchase on NJAL.

Naoko Ogawa

Wristbands by Lazerian

pleatfarmer — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 02:11:03 +0000

New jewelry collection by Lazerian is unveiled and sold at Not Just A Label online shop. The beautifully knotted and twisted bangles, made from high-quality lightweight polypropylene, are inspired by the animals and the sea creatures which were discovered by the famous German biologist Ernst Haeckel in the late 1800′s. More after the break.

Pleatfarm’s Top 10 Etsy Roundup

pleatfarmer — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 06:23:54 +0000

I caught a little etsy fever as she was nursing my influenza last weekend, and came up with a list of awesome designers that are currently gracing the etsy storefront – from Giia‘s large pleated necklaces to Patricia Ayres‘s structural tailoring. I thought these designers are worth the mention on Pleatfarm for their love of fabric/textile manipulations and designs that are simply gorgeous. I definitely am looking forward to what they have next in store. Click for the Top 10 list below.

Gemma Degara

Gemma Degara was born in 2003 in Barcelona. She’s characterized for working in versatile collections where functionality and comfort are the real protagonists. Her versatile “180º” garments let you to choose which side would be the front, allowing you to interpret the same garment in different ways.

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Patricia Ayres

Patricia Ayres is an artist and independent fashion designer based in New York City. She attended FIT and Parsons for fashion, and Fine Arts at Brooklyn College. Check out her other store artlab. Her works have been featured in FAULT (UK-current issue) , CITY, ADAM & EVE, NYLON, SURFACE, SPORTSWEAR INTERNATIONAL, FUGUE, WWD, WWDFAST, ITALIAN VOGUE, SENKEN (Japan) ,VARIETY, STITCH, THE FADER, and in film: The Rules of Attraction.

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Giia

Giia is run by an Interior Architect/Product Designer based in Milano, Italy. She designs unconventional jewelery, neckwear, bracelets and accessories. Pieces are designed using geometrical shapes, architectural constructions and free form combinations. The results are bold, completely unique and aesthetic pieces which easily transform any outfit, and achieves a complete look with an unique touch.

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Liza Rietz

Liza Rietz’s modern designs are structured yet feminine, detailed yet wearable, and are created individually, not mass-produced. Rietz designs two small lines annually, producing small batches of each design. Rietz’s designs are made out of all natural fabrics including cottons, linens, silks, and bamboos. With a small production run of each line, the individuality of each piece exemplifies how clothing can be artisitc and expressionistic.

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emilyryan

emilyryan has been designing custom and retail pieces since 2001, and have participated in many fashion shows over the years. She loves modern sculptural designs that explore texture and shape, as well as artistic, comfortable, and cozy designs. She is continually inspired by 1920′s couture, science fiction, and Japanese fashions.

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NEUE

NEUE was conceived by an Italian fashion design graduate who strongly believes in comfortable fashions. Her style is influenced by deconstructed japanese fashion, classic tailoring and a dash of naivety.

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takeofyourclothes

designs from beyond
-comfortable + adjustable
-recycled and repurposed
-question = creation

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Bellebas

Bio: Hola! My name is Luli. I design and create full time. I studied fashion design in Buenos Aires, city where I was born and lived most of my life. This is where the name of my shop comes belle bas: beautiful buenos aires. I recently moved into Ireland changing the city for the countryside and established my own little business here. I create, draw, do my own patterns, cut, sew and do the pictures. All my items are built from scratch by me.

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Babooshka Boutique

Bio: Babooshka graduated fashion school in 2005. After completing design school she opened her first shop later that year. Within the first few months of being open Babooshka earned a lot of respect in the Philadelphia fashion community.

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jenniferloiselle

These awesome headbands, including those oh-so-cool pleated headbands are hand-made in London in a range of fabrics and styles. Things the designer loves: mid-century furniture, taxidermy, polka dots, shoes, big accessories, Paris and most of all, dancing with my new baby.

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Origami accessories by Le Creative Sweatshop

pleatfarmer — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 06:16:10 +0000

I’m simply fascinated by the triangulated facets that made up these pair of high heels created by French designer duo Le Creative Sweatshop. Check out their Ponk! paper bracelet as well. More images after the jump.

Ponk! bracelet

images via le creative sweatshop

Smocked textile necklaces from Tinctory

pleatfarmer — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 07:50:34 +0000

Czech-born and British-based designer, Eva, created these intricately-smocked necklaces which are sold here. But what’s more fascinating was the record of inspirations and her processes on fabric manipulations on her Flickr set. Using cues from geometry in nature, Eva created several pleating studies over the years which she later translate into wearable jewelries.

The smocked necklaces are inspired by the intricate needlework seen on historic textiles. They are made entirely by hand using old, labour-intensive techniques. Most of the silk I use is repurposed vintage which means each material is slightly different (thickness, weave, lustre) and each piece unique. – Eva

various necklace pieces

smocking trials

Eva's previous works include this gorgeous pleated 'crest' necklace

helix ring

via Etsy + Flickr

Folding Birthday Rings

pleatfarmer — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 05:48:44 +0000

British-based Thai designer, Tithi Kutchamuch, created these nifty All Year Rings inspired by the tradition of birth month flowers. The collection consists of twelve ring designs which are laser-cut, engraved from a 200g/m2 textured white paper, and folded into paper rings.

How would you like to fold your shoes?

pleatfarmer — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:30:44 +0000

Welcome to Pleat Farm where your grazing needs for pleats are fulfilled! What a better way to celebrate my first entry by mentioning the lovely London-based Dutch designer Marloes ten Bhömer and her signature couture shoes.

The leather-lamination technique called the MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché is used to produce sheets of patterned shoe uppers. Some pairs such as the three-colored mache shoes result in footwear that fits snugly to your feet with each fold of the leather.

Priced at a whopping £2,250! No wonder they’re called ‘couture’.

via Marloes ten Bhömer